Method of Testing for Raw Silk—Part 1

 

Silk dates back thousands of years, and still to this day is highly regarded as one of the most valuable, luxurious fabric. Nowadays, raw silk annual production is up to 600,000 tons worldwide. But, the inspection of raw silk is of vital importance during its’ production process.

Overview

Raw silk test is divided into two items——weight and quality inspection. The quality inspection contains appearance, winding, size, evenness, cleanness, neatness, breaking length and elongation at break and cohesion inspection.
The following is an introduction to the normal inspection process, in the order of winding test, size test, breakage length and elongation at break test, evenness test, cohesion test, cleanness and neatness test.
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Winding Test

Winding test of raw silk is the first procedure in a series of raw silk inspection items. It refers to the number of broken ends that occur when raw silk is wound by a certain external force. Raw silk on cone needs not to be conducted winding test.
The purpose of the winding test is as follows:
  • Check the numbers of silk thread breakage occurs during silk reeling as the basis for evaluating the grade of raw silk.
  • Prepare specimens for the latter inspections, such as size, cleanness and elongation at break inspection.
  • Supplement the appearance inspection through observing and finding the defects inside of the silk slices during the process of winding.

Size test

Size inspection refers to the inspection of the changes in the thickness of raw silk. The uniformity of raw silk size is closely related to the length of the fabric, unit area weight, width, and warp and weft density. The uniformity of size directly affects the uniformity of the fabric structure. Size inspection is one of the main inspection items of raw silk, and the main indicators include size deviation, maximum deviation of size, as well as average size and conditioned size.

Breaking Length and Elongation at Break Inspection

During the processing and use of raw silk fibers, they are subjected to external forces such as tension, torsion, bending, compression, and friction, which determine the durability, wear resistance, hand feel, wrinkle resistance, and dimensional stability of silk fabrics.
The strength test in raw silk inspection usually refers to the strength and elongation test of the filament, which tests the mechanical tensile performance indicators such as the maximum load and maximum elongation that the tow can bear under a certain tensile force.

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